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Day 8
Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we will experience an eye-opening view of a Controversial Topic when we meet with three men who fought on opposing sides during the period of turmoil known as The Troubles. We’ll hear their firsthand accounts of the brutal experiences they had, and the dark deeds they committed during the fighting, about how sectarian divisions still split Belfast today, and how they are now committed to a shared vision of reconciliation. Read more about this exclusive activity below. Breakfast: Onboard in the ship’s dining room beginning around 6am. Morning: We’ll dock this morning in Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland. Despite being a center of conflict during The Troubles, Belfast has a long history and lasting legacies. The countryside surrounding the city inspired stories like the Chronicles of Narnia and Gulliver’s Travels. The city itself, as an industrial center in the 19th century, was a hub of Ireland’s booming linen industry and is the birthplace of the Titanic—which was designed, built, and launched in Belfast. Today, beginning around 9am, we’ll get to explore the city like a local: in Belfast’s famous taxis. During the height of The Troubles in the 1970s, public buses stopped serving West Belfast’s Catholic neighborhoods, and these iconic taxis stepped up to offer their services. Today’s taxis are driven by Catholics and Protestants alike, and in groups of 3-5 per car, we’ll get a very personal view of the city through our drivers’ eyes. They’ll share their perspectives on the city’s historic political turmoil and religious divides, as well as their views on how old controversies cast a shadow over Belfast today. As long-term residents of the neighborhoods you’ll be exploring, your driver will be able to offer a personal perspective of this dangerous period of Belfast’s history, when a wrong turn might have taken you across the dividing line between the Catholic and Protestant section of the city, putting drivers and passengers at risk of physical abuse or even death. As we ride through the city, we’ll hear firsthand accounts about how the Belfast of the 1970s was a warzone. Fighters belonging to the militant faction of Irish Republican Army (IRA) committed bombings, shootings, and other acts of terror to pressure the British government into recognizing Irish sovereignty over the north. In response, extremists sympathetic to the crown formed paramilitary groups like the Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF), clashing with IRA rebels and unleashing their own acts of terror on Belfast’s Catholic population, while armed British soldiers patrolled the streets, fingers resting lightly on the trigger. The Troubles rocked Northern Ireland for three decades, and when the dust settled, more than 3,500 people—civilians and combatants alike—were killed, and more than 47,000 wounded. Our taxi drivers will take us by the boundary between West Belfast’s Protestant and Catholic neighborhoods, where murals on each side depict contrasting sentiments about the deep-rooted conflict. We’ll stop to see famous murals—such as the Irish Language Mural, the Tribute to Frederick Douglass, and the Nelson Mandela Mural—and our driver will help to explain each one’s significance. You’ll also have the opportunity to make your mark on a peace wall—one of the still-standing barricades that physically separates the city, now adorned with messages of hope and peace from locals and visitors alike. Because your driver grew up in Belfast, they will be able to offer a deeply personal perspective on the murals you will see—depending on whether they are Catholic or Protestant, they will have their own recollection of Belfast’s history, so be sure to ask questions, and to compare your experience with your fellow travelers once you have a chance to rejoin your group. Following our enlightening discoveries, we’ll arrive back to the ship around noon. Lunch: Onboard in the ship’s dining room. Afternoon: Following lunch onboard, you have the remainder of the afternoon to explore Belfast on your own. You may choose to visit Titanic Belfast, a memorial to the famed ship and museum chronicling Belfast’s maritime heritage, or pay a visit to the Crumlin Road Jail. Maybe you’ll stroll through the regal campus at Queen’s University. Or, you could always choose to enjoy a pint of the famous Guinness in one of the city’s pubs, mingling with locals and listening to traditional music. Later onboard around 6pm, we will have a chance to hear about a Controversial Topic during a 1-hour-long conversation with three individuals who fought in The Troubles—on opposing sides. We’ll meet two ex-political prisoners—Seamus, a Republican who fought for Irish independence, and Robert, a loyalist who fought with the UVF—as well as Lee, an ex-British army serviceman. During the violence of The Troubles it would have been inconceivable to gather men such as these in the same room; today, they have put aside their differences and will share their stories about the dark deeds they took part in during the fighting; their experiences while incarcerated; and their shared hopes for a better future. While the violence may be over, modern Belfast is still a divided city, and the road to harmony is a long one. Belfast’s religious population is roughly equally split, with 48% hailing from a Protestant background, and 45% raised Catholic. To this day, the two factions live in entirely segregated neighborhoods, divided physically by “peace lines”—walled barriers that separate the two sections of the city which are sealed off by locked gates each night. While the brightly colored murals along the walls illustrate the city’s hope for peace and reconciliation, the fact that the walls still stand demonstrate the progress that still needs to be made. This conversation will offer a perspective of Northern Ireland made possible only by the local connections facilitated by O.A.T.—we will confront harsh and uncomfortable truths, including tales of violence, death, and deeply-rooted prejudices that still linger over Belfast today. While this controversial topic may be emotionally challenging, it’s necessary to understand the real Northern Ireland, and travelers often find it rewarding. Dinner: Onboard in the ship’s dining room around 7:30pm. Evening: You have the freedom to spend the rest of your evening as you wish. Perhaps you’ll enjoy a nightcap at the bar or relax in the lounge with fellow travelers to discuss today’s discoveries. |
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5/16/23 |
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Explore Belfast, Northern Ireland
Meals
included: B L D